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Editor's Pick

AP Royal Oak "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST vs Royal Oak 39mm Ref. 15300ST

By Aaron Voyles
27 Oct 2022
5 min read

Sometimes even the most strikingly similar watches can tell wildly different stories — all based on almost imperceptible differences. But how do these differences stack up in reality? Here’s what we found out about these two almost-identical Royal Oaks

 

The Devil’s In The Details

The intricacies of watch collecting can keep one engaged over a long time. Getting lost in the nitty gritties that a layperson would easily skim over is something that often distinguishes a serious collector from an enthusiast. It’s perhaps one of the most endearing attributes of collecting, won’t you agree? The ability to lose oneself to the minutiae within a watch's design as you endlessly search for the edge of a fractal – knowing you could forever study a brand or model and still not know everything it has to offer – is quite an attractive prospect, at least to me. 

Collectors can often get obsessed with tiny details and their impact on a timepiece's design, desirability and value. From small differences in font sizes, to the variations in dials – matte, glossy, tropical or more, to dots over 90s or next to 90s and from logos above 6 o'clock to logos at 12 o'clock; the list goes on and on. 

 

Dials
The "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST (left) uses each of the company's four colors on its hour markers from 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck 

 

One of the watches that has featured many of these almost imperceptible details over the years is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Produced since 1972, it has no shortage of variants that enjoy plenty of these small intricacies, such as the A-Series Ref. 5402, which features a slightly different dial as compared to the various other series that followed. In the same vein, the two watches we are going to examine today are almost entirely identical, yet one is a limited edition of just 50 pieces, while the other is a production piece that certainly has more than 50 pieces in circulation – the Royal Oak "Al Naboodah" Ref. 15313ST and the Royal Oak Ref. 15300ST. 

 

The 39mm Royal Oak 

In watchmaking, a timepiece is often best known for being offered in a certain size, even if the watch is made available in other sizes over the years or if that original size has been discontinued. The Rolex Day-Date is quite a perfect example of that, with its signature size being 36mm. The same can be said for the Royal Oak with its 39mm case. While it’s offered in far smaller and larger sizes, it’s the 39mm that collectors desire the most as they are closest to the original Ref. 5402's dimensions. Here, we have two 39mm Royal Oaks that feature stainless steel cases and silver dials. So what sets them apart, you ask? Let's explore.

 

Royal Oak "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST

 

RO Al Naboodah
The Royal Oak "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST is commemorative release commissioned by the Al Naboodah Company Photo: Wristcheck

 

Launched in 2008, the Royal Oak "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST is a very different kind of Royal Oak – an extremely rare commemorative release. Commissioned by the Al Naboodah Company, a UAE-based family-owned conglomerate founded in 1958, the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST celebrates the company's 50th anniversary in a rather subtle way.

Inspired by Al Naboodah's logo, the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST uses each of the company's four colors on its hour markers from 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock – a subtle change from the typical white gold hour markers that normally punctuate the Royal Oak's dial.

 

casebacks
The Ref. 15313ST has a special engraving reading "Al Naboodah 50th Anniversary" (right) on its caseback Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck 

 

Limited to 50 pieces, one for each year, the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST is exceedingly rare and thanks to its visually unique display, is quite collectable as well. Featuring a commemorative caseback with Al Naboodah's logo at the centre of its sapphire crystal caseback and a special engraving reading "Al Naboodah 50th Anniversary," the Ref. 15313ST is perhaps the perfect Royal Oak for the discerning collector, who wants to own something unique and subtle. 

 

Royal Oak Ref. 15300ST

 

15300ST
The Royal Oak Ref. 15300ST Photo: Wristcheck

 

Launched in 2005 and produced until 2012, the Ref. 15300ST has seen a relatively long production run, and is thus quite an accessible Royal Oak variant compared to the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST. Of course, it does lack the "Al Naboodah’s commemorative caseback, unique dial and limited production but it’s functionally the exact same watch with the same automatic cal. 3120 movement, the same 39mm stainless steel construction and the same overarching aesthetic thanks to its silver dial. 

Perfect for collectors, who want to embrace the Royal Oak's signature sizing in a modern package that’s incredibly wearable, the Ref. 15300ST is the ideal option. Thanks to its 60-hour power reserve and monochromatic aesthetic, the Ref. 15300ST we have here is quite a practical option, generally speaking, with its dial lending itself to plenty of different occasions, outfits and so on.

 

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Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck 

 

The Takeaway

It’s tough to choose between an incredibly rare piece and a common iteration available at a much more reasonable price. While the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST is visually distinct, its differences might not be enough for some collectors to spend extra money, but for others, it’s the subtlety of its design that makes the watch so appealing – just like the co-signed dials on a Patek Philippe or the "London" dials on a Cartier – the small differentiator is what makes it special, and to be honest; I get it. 

 

crowns
The two 39mm Royal Oaks feature stainless steel cases and silver dials Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck 

 

Indeed, different collectors do value different things; some want the Ref. 15300ST for its signature Royal Oak sizing, modern movement, and iconic Royal Oak construction, while others want the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST for what makes it rare and unique on top of what the Ref. 15300ST offers. Either way, the watch industry will always have the wants and desires of every collector covered, and these two timepieces signify this in the most romantic way possible – through two timepieces that are separated by just the smallest of margins that go on to have a huge impact. 

Whether you prefer one to the other is not really the business of the watchmaker. Their job is to produce something worth chasing, and it’s hard to argue that Audemars Piguet have not done exactly that with these two references. Sure, the "Al Naboodah" Edition Ref. 15313ST might be a commemorative piece that wasn’t intended for the open market but here it is, and that’s what makes watch collecting so special – there are always unicorns to chase.